Engine

Specifications

496 ci short block (purchased from Speed-O-Motive in December 1998)
Gen IV block (bored .060")
Brass freeze plugs
4.25" stroke forged steel crankshaft
Reconditioned GM steel connectings rods with ARP bolts
Keith Black (KB244) hypereutectic pistions
Sealed power moly pistion rings
Clevite rod and main bearings
ARP main bolts
Rotating assembly fully balanced
4.310 bore x 4.25" stroke = 496 cubic inches

Solid roller valvetrain
Comp Cams 288AR Magnum solid roller camshaft
Crower super duty solid roller lifters
Summit Racing double roller chain with thrust bearing
Comp Cams pushrods
Harland Sharpe full roller rockers
Comp Cams double valve springs

GM Performance Parts Aluminum Heads (Scoggin-Dickey)
GM Part # 12363390
2.25" Stainless intake valves
1.88" Stainless exhaust vaves
11/32" Valve stems
110cc Combustion chambers
Springs replaced with Comp Cams roller cam springs

GM Performance Parts High Rise Aluminum Intake (Scoggin-Dickey)
GM Part # 12363421
CNC port matched to cylinder heads
Coated with Jet-Hot high luster coating

Ignition System
Performance Distributors DUI Street/Strip HEI system
MSD 8.5mm super-conductor wires

Fuel System
Holley 4150HP - 950cfm double pumper
Rock Valley stainless steel gas tank

Miscellaneous Parts
Comp Cams 2-piece timing chain cover
Morose #20403 6-quart oil pan (integral windage tray)
Summit Racing high volume oil pump

Engine Photos

I received the 496 short-block from Speed-O-Motive in early January '99. It came securely packaged in a reusable engine crate. It would be a nice crate to keep, but you get a hefty deposit returned when they receive it back. You can see the engine is not painted. I requested it this way. They would have painted it black, but I've always liked the nostalgic look of Chevy orange. Here are some pictures of the shipping crate and the engine mounted to the stand.

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Before I get to far, let me fill you in on the parts inside the assembly. The standard 496 assembly from Speed-O-Motive includes a cleaned and machined GenIV block with cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. A new 4.25" stroke forged crankshaft. Reconditioned 6.135" GM rods with new ARP rod bolts. TRW Hypereutectic Pistons and Rings. All assembled with new Main and Rod bearings. Now, I upgraded a few of the items for my own "peace of mind". First off, since this is only a 2-Bolt block, I felt safer by using new ARP main cap bolts. The cost is minimal considering the damage a broken bolt could do. I also opted for the Keith Black Hypereutectic Pistons. The major difference between the pistons are the KB's are T6 heat treated for extra strength. Along with the KB's I also chose the Speed-Pro Moly file fit rings. Here are more pictures of the assembly after painting.

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Now, let's talk about the goodies that makeup the rest of the engine. For the Oil Pan, I chose Moroso part #20403 which includes an integral windage tray. This pan is also clearanced for the larger rod throw of stroker motor. For the Oil Pump/Pickup, I purchased a Summit Racing high-volume oil pump and pickup (already welded on) for this exact oil pan. For the oil pan gasket, I picked out a Fel-Pro gasket that has a steel core. This should help to prevent squishing out the gasket when tightening the bolts. Now, instead of going for the traditional 1-piece timing cover. I chose an awesome looking 2-piece aluminum cover from Comp Cams. The block side of the 2-piece needs to be installed before the oil pan. This cam cover also includes a roller bearing cam button that will be needed when I install the roller cam.

Since I'm going with the Richmond 6-Speed, I chose a Lakewood bell housing. Inside the bell housing, I installed a Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch which is mounted to a Ram billet steel flywheel. I also used new grade 8 bolts from Moroso for the clutch & flywheel.

Before I close up the bell housing, I will need to check starter pinion gear clearance with the flywheel. I don't have pictures in this set, but I purchased a Powermaster Denso Mini Starter from Summit. It has a 4.4:1 gear reduction and the starter motor itself can be removed from the mounting plate and turned in a number of positions to clear all types of headers.

For attaching all the accessories to the engine, I purchased an ARP stainless steel 12-point bolt kit. It includes bolts for things like intake, headers, water pump, oil pan and just about everything bolted to the outside of the engine.

Also in the pictures below, you can see a deluxe motor stand I purchased from Jegs High Performance. This is necessary if you want to bolt on the flywheel and bell housing without letting the engine dangle from the cherry picker. A standard engine stand doesn't have enough depth to bolt anything on the back of the engine.

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July 1999

I installed a new Powermaster Mini Starter after hearing all the stories about headers not fitting with OEM style starters. I've also completely bolted on the bell housing, which uses quite a few as you can see in the pictures.

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Now I'm ready for the valve train. After calling the Comp Cams help line several times and getting recommendations, I decided on a Magnum Solid Roller (part# 288AR). This seems like a large cam by the duration number, but have been told this will make an excellent street cam in a motor this big. Here a picture if the CamSpec card for those interested. I also decide to go with a Summit double roller timing chain that has been machined to accept a Torrington thrust bearing. I was ready to order a set of Magnum roller lifter when a new magazine article was introducing Comp Cams new Endure-X rollers. The new lifters have a small grove machine on the side of the body (which you can see on the pictures) that supplies a spray of oil to the roller itself. They cost about twice as much as standard roller, but I'm hoping these will have a long life. I also degreed the cam using a kit from Comp Cams. The cam was 3 degrees advanced, so I installed a 3 degree retard bushing in the chain. I've been told Comp grinds in a 4 degree advance to their cams. So I had to retard so I wouldn't have a total of 7 degrees advance.

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As you can see in these next pictures, I've got the 6-speed bolted on the back of the engine. Go to the Transmission page for more detailed pictures. Now I'm ready to install the upper half of the engine. I originally was planning on using Edelbrock Performer heads, but after making a few phone calls, I found a GM dealer in Texas that had a set of GM Perf Aluminum heads (same as the 502/502hp uses) cheaper than the Edelbrock. So guess who got the order. While I was working with them, I also decided to order a GM dual plane intake which had been port matched to the heads by a CNC machine. I also picked up a set of Bowtie Race Valve covers which I haven't installed yet. The heads are bolted on using new ARP bolts. To finish the valve train, I decided on a set of Comp Cams pushrods and a set of Harland Sharpe full roller rockers. I had to make a small modification to one rocker arm on each side of the engine to fit the Bowtie Covers.

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Engine Installation

Now for the installation. I attached small plates to an exhaust bolt on each side of the engine then attached the chain to these. I decided to use Urethane Engine mounts and Transmission mounts from Energy Suspension. Also you can see where I installed drain petcocks on each side. I've blasted and painted the engine frame mounts, installed in these next pictures. If you read the Transmission page, you will see the floor surgery I had to do to fit the transmission in place. I must have removed and installed the engine 10 times to get everything checked and fit correctly.

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May 2000

Here are some more pics of the complete engine with the Jet-Hot coated intake. The intake has the same high luster coating available for headers. The bottom also has a special heat resistant coating to protect the intake from the hot oil splash underneath.

I've finally received my headers back from Jet-Hot. For those of you wondering how the 3/4 length headers fit, these pics are for you. I had to dimple one tube by the cross member, and also grind the header flange a tiny bit to allow clearance of the head bolts. I did this before sending them out for coating.

For the ignition system, I chose all MSD components. I'm using the 6AL spark box, Pro-Billet distributor (small diameter cap, HEI style terminals), Blaster SS coil and 8.5mm Super-Conductor plug wires. The plug wire separators are from Made For You Products.

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September 2000

I've always liked the clean look of a serpentine belt system, so I chose a complete bolt-on package from Street & Performance in Mena, Arkansas. I needed all accessories like water pump, alternator, a/c compressor, and power steering pump, so I let S&P handle the whole package. I also chose chrome plating instead of polished for easy maintenance. Also, here are some pics of the Afco Racing aluminum radiator. I did set the radiator in place to take some pics, but it has not been permanently installed yet. This radiator provides quite a large surface are, so I'm hoping it will keep this big-block cool during the summer cruising.

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January 2001

At the engine, the braided lines were terminated at the fuel injection unit, along with a by-pass regulator. These pics also show the installation of the radiator, stock style 2-piece fan shroud and stainless steel reverse flow flexfan. These pics also show the full serpentine brackets and pulleys.

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March 2002 - Fuel and Ignition

Out with the Fuel Injection & MSD, In with the New Holley 950HP and DUI Ignition.

The Barry Grant VFI was injecting a very rich mixture and none of the settings in the computer would help correct the problem. Also spoke with BG support with no success. I ended up returning the complete system to Jegs, and thankfully after owning and installing the system for 18 month, Barry Grant authorized a full refund. Although, I did need to explain how people that do frame-off restorations, sometimes don't use parts for years after they are purchased and installed.

In these newest pictures, you can see my choice for Induction. I decided on the 950HP after hearing many good experiences with this carb from my friends at Team Chevelle. The Mallory bypass regulator sends the necessary 6 psi of fuel pressure to the carb, and routes the excess fuel back to the tank. Similar to a fuel injection fuel system. Also you can see the HEI from Performance Distributors.

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September 2005

I was having some problems with imcomplete combustion and under-heating. I think with the aluminum radiator and aluminum heads and intake, I was getting super efficient cooling, just too much. I removed the engine and recalculated compression ratios and decided to switch to a pair of ported and polished cast iron heads with a tad smaller combustion chambers and a new Dart intake. I sold the other set as matched set. So far it's been running better with this combo.

The engine color of black has grown on me, as you can see in the pictures.

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